Post Aix-en-Provence

My third or fourth visit to Aix-en-Provence and the longest to date, two weeks. This time I thought and read a lot about Provencal and struggled to work out whether it should be regarded as a language or a dialect and what its relationship to the southern version of French, the langue d’oc/Occitan is. According to Wikipedia, it is “not to be confused with Franco-Provencal, a distinct language that shares features of both French and Provencal”. Despite this succinct warning, clouds of confusion swirl around my brain…

Last time I was in Aix, I picked up Etienne Garcin (1784-1845) “La Robinson Provencale/La Robinsouno Prouvençalo”, with bilingual text in French and Provencal. It’s undoubtedly much easier to read Provencal than it would be to read another unknown Latin language but there are quite a few grammatical differences to modern French, not just vocabulary differences.  Leaving me not much wiser as far as concerns the relationship between “dialect” and “language”.

I thought to start with that it was simply the story of Robinson Crusoe in French and Provencal but on closer inspection, I realise that it’s an adaptation where a group of Provencal folk are shipwrecked on an island and start to build up a new Provence and that Robinson Crusoe is not just the name of a book but of a literary genre as a device for social commentary.

Etienne Garcin also constructed a French-Provencal dictionary although it appears that his project was to help Provencal speakers learn French rather than focusing on the preservation of Provencal.

Other authors important for Provence and Provencal were the poet Frederic Mistral (1830-1914), awarded the Nobel prize in 1904 and one of the founders of the literary and cultural association, the Felibrige, Alphonse Daudet (1840-97) and Jean Giono (1895-1970).

With roots in the West Country and an intensive relationship with Dorset and Somerset, it’s not hard for me to relate to this French regionalism and it’s of great interest to me to compare the two processes.

In Dorset, Thomas Hardy towers above all else and much of the area’s regional identity feeds off his work. There is, however, a strong antiquarian tradition pre-dating and post-dating Hardy, for example, William Barnes and other authors, such as the Powys brothers, as well as groups of people active around the Dorset County Museum. This tradition made a major contribution to documenting the old Dorset culture and language and to staying some of the excesses of the Victorian church restorers. Unlike the Provencal authors, however, there wasn’t much of a political dimension to Hardy – he may have regretted the passing of the old ways and documented them as well as being critical of some of the harsh results of industrialism but, unlike, for example, Giono in Provence, he wasn’t involved in any kind of struggle to maintain a way of life that bore up the old culture. In other respects though, Giono is the French author, who reminds me most of Hardy, in his descriptions of and attitude to rural life and his “pantheist background universe”. Some of his ideological positions feel like precursors of the modern environmental movement, although tinged with the political atmosphere of the 1930s, which (from a very superficial study of him so far) feels doubtful.

Provencal is interesting too in a wider context of studying French as the most German of the Latin languages and English as the most Latin of the Germanic languages. German speakers had a profound effect on both England and what was then Gaul, with the Anglo-Saxons pushing aside or at least subjugating the Celtic British and the Franks building an empire across northern France.

English became very much a Germanic language until the new impetus from French with William the Conqueror which led to the French being the language of the aristocracy for three centuries in England. The process was different in Gaul where Latin had had a greater impact on the previously Celtic population than in England and where there was then a major German influence on the language at least in northern France.

My knowledge of French history is not what it should be (I intend to try to tidy up this shamefully scruffy area of my “formation”) but I believe that the impact of the Franks was less in the south and that there Vulgar Latin developed into southern French, the langue d’oc, with less external interruption. It would be interesting to compare words originated from the Franks in northern France with similar words in Provencal to see whether different “more latinised” words have survived in the south.

All of this (and against the background of recent developments in Catalonia) makes one realise what a work in progress national identity is. Had the Paris-based French rulers (and perhaps the Spanish) been less effective, it’s not hard to see that there could have been another political/national entity extending from Catalonia to Savoy (Provencal is related to Catalan), effectively crushed by the Albigensian crusade against the Cathars and the later weakness of the area after its time of glory with the troubadours.

To sum up, I need to look at some university reading lists in appropriate subjects to have a firmer basis for thinking about terms like dialect and language, to read more about the history of France and the French language, to study the history of the Felibrige and Provencal authors in greater depth and to try to achieve some order in my mind about the welter of dialects and languages scattered over the south in recent history and up to present-day France. I have at least quite a library of books to help (making my bookshelf even more of a statement of the person I would like to be…) and it should be enough to keep me off the streets during the dark months ahead…

To Kramfors and the High Coast

First time north of Gävle for 35 years. Propeller plane to Midlanda, Sundsvall’s gateway to the world. Not normally a flying distance but there’s work on the line and few trains.

Drive to the “High Coast”, in my imagination high cliffs and coves like Dorset, encouraged by an English acquaintance saying it was the only place in Sweden where she could live. It’s not like this though, at least not what we could see from the landside. A bit disappointed. Beautiful landscape but it’s a Swedish beauty with slightly different rounded hills. A different sort of rock from Dorset although there are sandstone cliffs somewhere there. Must consult a geological map.

Not unpleasant once I adjust my expectations. To Bönhamn on the coast with its fishing huts closed for the season.

Gunilla leaves to give her lecture. Day starts well with good hotel breakfast. Clambering up damp steps to the old meeting place and cultural centre, Babelsberg. Informed that, in the days of Red Ådalen, 600 people came there to listen to Kata Dahlström, social democrat who became a communist, Swedish delegate to the second Comintern conference in 1920. But her views on Christianity and Communism brought critic from Zinoviev, among others. She later abandoned communism and regarded herself as a Buddhist towards the end of her life. Her daughter Ruth Stjernstedt, a lawyer, became a baroness through marriage and lived in Lidingö.

Rain intensifies. The bus station is deserted, the day’s bus to Ytterlännäs old church left at 06.45. The bookshop went bankrupt in 2015. No Akademibokhandeln.  The picture in my mind’s eye of ferreting around in a secondhand book shop looking for Ångermanland authors and buying a few books about the area fades into dystopic chill. The town is empty – a few refugees, mostly men with an occasional woman wandering around, integrating with a community that is nowhere to be seen. Södertälje-style immigrant owned food shop seems active and cheerful as does the immigrant-run station café. Coffee and a violently pink cake while considering next move.

An hour in the library. Rain intensifying. Disconsolate. Demoralised. Give up and retreat to hotel, some difficulty finding. Wet, sleep.

Next day much more satisfactory. By car to Ytterlännäs, the old church reputedly from 1200 with its paintings and intensity. Summer is over and it’s locked, see a bit by peering through a window. Pleasing archaic environment. Across the Ångerman river, follow the waterside, and across Sandö bridge to Lunde Folkets hus from where the demonstration against strikebreakers started in 1931. Military preparations with machine gun in place, the officers in charge do not want to repeat the humiliation of Seskarö in 1917 where the soldiers were disarmed. Five killed in Ådalen, one bystander. Token punishment for military.

Social democratic prohibition against their members attending the funerals as the demonstration was organised by the CP. Could it really have been so. Must go to KB’s newspaper library to read the papers from 1931 – ages since I’ve been there. Monument to the victims by a Södertälje sculptor, Lenny Clarhäll. Raining hard.

Back through Nordingrå to the coast at Norrfällsviken. Buy a Swedish translation of Genet’s Notre-Dame des Fleurs at a small hut selling bric a brac to avoid the shameful feeling of slithering out empty handed. Lunch at a fish restaurant about to close for the season. Pile of tins of fermented Baltic herring. Then Mannaminne, the art museum near Nordingrå, weird and wonderful with its Norwegian and Estonian exhibitions, an old metro carriage, a jet plane and trams, aiming to show the interconnectedness of everything (picture folk adrift in the world of words…).

Back to the E4 highway and down to Sundsvall. No time for Härnösand, worth a visit, nor energy to look at buildings in Sundsvall. Härnösand previously just a station where I got off to hitch-hike to the north in my early days in Sweden. That journey a blur, snapshot memories of the swimming pool in Luleå, making my way inland to Jokkmokk, the Same museum, in the evening to Arvidsjaur, put up by a family, given gruel (välling) for breakfast, uncertain whether it was really for me.

We try to have a Swedish trip once a year. Last year to Gotland, before that Bohuslän and Värmland. Places flashed through expand – Medelpad is here and Ångermanland there. I saw Bo Widerberg’s film Ådalen 31 in London in the radical 70s but now I know where it is.

Moving country is to be uprooted, to be separated from everything familiar, a long struggle to obtain nutrition from a thin soil (thin with its lack of associations rather than thin per se). Work to make the soil richer, often hard work in Sweden, where we are not spoon fed with the historical and curious as in larger cultures but have to winkle it out. But this work is important to feel at home, to be enriched and not diminished by a life lived abroad.

First-class train to Stockholm, the world feels soft and problem-free for three hours. We left Thursday lunchtime and return Saturday evening. Usual weird effects on sense of time.

 

 

Language meander

Unless the devil pops up with a draft agreement for a Faustian pact to keep the grim reaper at bay for say another couple of centuries, I’m not going to get where I want to with languages. But like the proverb, I will travel hopefully and the unfinished journey will still be fun.

Studying an Asian language reveals interesting links between East and West. I’ve just seen (from Wikipedia) that 1-10 in Romany is ekh, duj, tritt, štar, pandž, šov, ifta, oxto, inju and deš. Apart from 7-9 where Greek seems to have got in on the act, this is very close to Bangla. Even given what is known about the Indian origins of Romany, it’s amazing it’s so similar (I wonder if this is the case for all versions of Romany). Sheep-counting systems in the Lake District (yan, tan, tethera) among other places in Northern Britain, linking back to Brythonic, offer more examples of this persistence of numbers.

Going back beyond Bangla, I increasingly feel that a knowledge of Sanskrit should be part of every well-educated person’s “formation” (along with Hebrew, Roman, Greek and, perhaps, Farsi). At least I’ve now used Sanskrit for the first time (with more than a little help from someone sitting beside me telling me what to repeat).

We are very fortunate in English to have such an abundance of etymological resources (compared with, for example, Swedish) and the work of the etymologists deserves great respect and gratitude. But I wonder about their conceptual universe when it came to possible source languages. Were some languages more or less under the radar (a small wince at the anachronism allowed) or at least not enjoying at all the same level of expertise as Latin, Greek and Hebrew as sources.

An example the other day made me think – the slang word “dosh” for money given in the Concise OD as “1950s of unknown origin”. However, “dosh” in Romany means exactly money so it seems a strong candidate (and perhaps even further back the word “ten” in Romany and Bangla).

Another language or perhaps rather cryptolect, which is rather under the radar is Shelta, a language spoken by Irish travellers and also known as Cant or the Gammon. There is Old Shelta with a heavier input from Gaelic and New Shelta where English has taken over (grammar and vocabulary). Wikipedia has two versions of the Lord’s Prayer in old and current Shelta.

“Our Father who art in heaven” becomes  “Mwilsha’s gater, swart a manyath” in Old Shelta and “Our gathra, who cradgies in the manyak-norch” in current Shelta. Gathra cradgying in the manyak-norch seems rather jolly in a Lewis Carroll kind of way compared with “who art in heaven”. Maybe should find some more academic tomes on Shelta….

One wonders whether “gaffer” has come from Shelta (of unknown origin, perhaps from Godfather in the COD).

At least the Concise Oxford Dictionary has picked up the etymology of “bloke” which we have imported from Shelta, which may also be related to a Gaelic word.

Shelta has some grammatical quirks which are reminiscent of French argot.

Wikipedia has a nice list of various argots and cryptolects including Rotwelsch spoken by covert groups in Switzerland and eastern Germany (probably from Welsh, being an old Germanic word for foreigners, the inobservant Anglo-Saxons never quite getting their heads around Cymry). Rotwelsch is interesting because we have a word “Rotvälska” in Swedish defined as “double Dutch” (hets mot folkgrupp here…) and Gibberish.

Rotvälska always reminds me of my spoken Swedish. My mother really wanted me to be a good linguist so she took me to the river that runs around the Tower of Babel as she had heard that those immersed in the river were given the gift of languages (God’s test to see if the inhabitants of the tower could overcome their mutual incomprehension and cooperate by holding one another in the river without dropping the other person – they couldn’t). My mother was more but not completely successful – I became quite good at languages but she held me by the ear so I don’t hear them at all well and go rootwelshing my way through the languages with my Achilles ear.

There is a certain amount of poetic licence here by the way and perhaps it’s time to meander off to bed….

 

 

Some power to the geronts

Like women, older people are confronted by a great number of expectations about how they are supposed to be, or not to be and what they are supposed to do and not to do. It’s possible, and perhaps easier than initially expected, not to go with the flow but it requires a bit of thought to separate the biologically reasonable from mere force of social habit; not to accept unjustified restrictions or limitations but to go on exploring and enjoying oneself and the world and developing, while at the same time giving due consideration to the demands made by having to work with version 7.1 rather than 2.5 (some useful performance improvements but unfortunately at the expense of a certain deterioration of core functions).

As a participant in the onward dance of the 68 generation towards silver power, I struggle with myself to overcome the increasing horror of the new, which tends to accompany ageing, to counteract the “every time I hear the word upgrade, I reach for my gun” attitude. I have made some progress since my first tussle with automatic store check-outs in the UK where the machine frightened me by bellowing “alien object in the bagging area” and I am now sufficiently adept that I more seldom experience the flies-to-a-jampot helpfulness of some staff when catching sight of a silver top. But I am still struggling with my attitude to Mac computers. I feel that a modern person should like them or at least be able to use them competently and so from time to time I have a little Mac spasm trying fitfully to work up a bit of enthusiasm, this post inspired by a just concluded session with my wife’s Mac, which ended by it deriding me by starting to croon music I couldn’t stop (I am NOT going to Scarborough Fair and I do not want to remember you, musical Mac). I want to be a modern man but it’s hard to concentrate when you’re grinding your teeth at the same time as your hair is standing on end.

Post-England: Richmond, The Dane Law, Vicereines and No Worries

Post England: Richmond, The Dane Law, Vicereines and No Worries.

Richmond

I’ve always liked the town name Richmond (as in Richmond-on-Thames and Richmond, Yorks) but have only recently delved into its etymology. The “rich” part is often misunderstood as “wealthy” but in fact the derivation is rather from “rich” in the sense of powerful (“rice” in Anglo-Saxon means “strong”, “powerful”, also “might”, power”, “authority” becoming “reich” in modern German). The “mond” is also interesting. It’s been interpreted as “mound” (as describing a strong fortification on a hill). I’m not completely convinced by this, however, as I’m having difficulty tracing “mound” so far back, even if Richmond Castle was definitely on a hill (been there, climbed that). Another possibility is that the Normans took the name with them – there is at least one “Richemont” in or not so far from Normandy. Dauzat and Rostaing’s “Dictionnaire étymologique des noms de lieux en France” gives the origin as the name of a German man, in this case an Old German “personal quality” name meaning “strong protector”, the “mond” in this case developing from “mynd” (as in the Swedish “formyndare”, person having authority, guarding interests etc. which has cognates in older/modern German).

I don’t yet possess a copy of the English Place Name Society’s North Yorkshire volume but I shall try to acquire it soon as it without doubt has a good history of the development of the place name.

The Dane Law

I’m interested in the Dane Law and the history and development of the Danish-speaking population in England before and after the Conquest (1066) but written sources seem tantalisingly few (Frank Stenton, a major figure in the development of Anglo-Saxon studies wrote (early in C20) a couple of volumes on the Dane Law though, which are listed in Libris). However, in a local studies library in Grimsby, I did find a reprint of the Domesday Book for areas of Lincolnshire, William the Conqueror’s detailed account of landownership of his conquered realm, listing former landowners and Norman replacements. The Lincoln volume is of especial interest as Lincolnshire was in the Dane Law but I believe less subject to the Harrying of the North when William laid waste large areas of recalcitrant Yorkshire, the general turbulence making it hard to draw firm conclusions from later sources about pre-Conquest conditions). The Scandinavian names in the Lincoln volume may therefore tell us more about land ownership etc. before the Normans arrived. The alphabetical list of landowners has a very satisfying Scandinavian feel “Sweinn, Svertingr….Thoraldr, Thorfrothr, Thorgils, Thorir, son of Roaldr…Thorsteinn, Topi, see Halfdan, Ulfr, Tosti..Ulfr, Svartbrandt’s father”. It would be interesting to plot the distribution of Scandinavian names on a map, comparing with place names, and looking at type of land ownership to see what one could find about the relationship between the Anglo-Saxons and Danes at this time.

Other bits and pieces

I learnt the word “Vicereine”, which is female equivalent of “Viceroy” or the wife of the Viceroy. This from a visit to Lord Curzon’s family seat in Derbyshire (Lord Curzon was Viceroy of India (the Sovereign’s representative in the late 19th, early 20th century).

Also amused to see “No worries” used on a railway poster explaining what to do in a particular situation. Interesting how some slang expressions make their way into the general language when their “bearers” grow older and put their own imprint on official language.

Beyond the Watford Gap

I’m trying to read fewer books that I agree with as I think it’s healthier for the intellect to have to struggle to understand alien arguments than to be lulled by the apparently reasonable. However, I had to make an exception for Phillip McCann’s recent work “The UK Regional-National Economic Problem. Geography, globalization and governance” (Routledge/Regional Studies Association). It expresses succinctly many of the ideas that I’ve dimly perceived and confirms my feeling that the lack of ability to explain what was actually happening in the UK was an important ingredient in the successful defrauding of the periphery by the Brexiteers. It’s a bit of a struggle as it’s quite dense and I only have an electronic copy on my mobile (the hardback is four times as expensive) but I am plodding through it.

A few quotes from the introductory summary to provide a taste of the work

“The  UK economy is internally not only diverging but it is now disconnecting, decoupling and dislocating into two or possibly three quite separate economies….While London and its hinterland regions perform strongly, almost half of the UK population live in regions and cities whose productivity is similar to, or even below, that of the poorer regions of the former East Germany and weaker than many regions even in the Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary and Slovakia….At the same time, the overly centralised UK government system has not only failed to respond to this dislocating and decoupling for many years but in some ways has acted so as to exacerbate this”.

“The weak long run productivity performance of the UK is largely a result of the fact that productivity benefits do not spread across the country but remain largely localized in the south generating large interregional inequalities.”

“…large sections of the UK media and political circles appear to be largely unaware of where the UK as a whole actually sits in international rankings in terms of economic prosperity…much of the reason for this is that the UK media and political circles are dominated by the day to day experience of London and its hinterland, and, as such, the media and political circles frame discussions of these issues entirely with a London-specific backdrop, one which is not even approximately reflective of the UK as a whole.”

… “At the same time, the rest of the UK is relatively much more dependent on trade with Europe than is London, which is rather more global in its economic orientation”.

It’s well worth reading (I suspect there will be a cheaper paperback in the course of time). It feels as if one should have been reading much more about Britain much earlier in one’s life. Perhaps a case of Minerva’s owl flying out at dusk – flapping around a bit in front of her nest anyway..

 

 

Speedwell and Veronica

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Speedwell/Veronica

The name “speedwell” has appealed to me from our first acquaintance but I haven’t known much about it before. I now know that the attractive blue and yellow flower on Kungshatt lawn is Speedwell, also known as Veronica (one of a multitude from Veronica abyssinica to zygantha).

The name Speedwell reputedly derives from the flower rapidly losing its petals once plucked (not so beautiful…). Scrophulariaceae, the species Veronica was traditionally attributed to, is ugly (now changed as the attribution was found to be grossly polyphyletic, in lay language appearing similar but not having a common ancestor). Nor is it easy to be thrilled by its rhizomatous reproduction (sprouts from the root) or that it is Draadereprijs in the Netherlands and Faden-Ehrenpris in Germany. But I still like the name and flower and my passage across the lawn will be a tad closer to the divine.

Veronica has more of a history, extending back to the woman who mopped the fallen Christ’s face on the road to Golgotha, she being named in the apocryphal gospel of Nicolaus, single source of not a few biblical names (Berenike in Greek). The naming is disputed as Veronica could be interpreted as Vero ikon – the true icon. Apocryphal or not, the cloth with the image of Christ is claimed as one of the Vatican’s most treasured possessions. A popular story, there are Catholic churches dedicated to Veronica (in the US, among other places) although I haven’t come across any Protestant churches so named. There is also a St Veronica of Milan in the 1400s. I haven’t found out how the name became entwined with the flower, although it does bear the nickname “Angel’s eyes”.

The symbol of St Veronica (the biblical, also patron saint of photographers and laundry workers) is the veil bearing the face of Christ and the crown of thorns. There are references to her feast day being 12 July and her being venerated on Shrove Tuesday (movable date). I need to check the difference between a Saint’s feast day and the day of veneration.

 

 

Jeroboams, Methuselahs and Nebuchadnezzars)

Odd bits of information which I’m glad to have

The names of large wine bottles are amusing. Up to Nebuchadnezzar, the terminology seems stabilised. I’m uncertain about the status of the terms for 24 litres and upwards. There is a reference to these names in early nineteenth century dictionaries but no clarity about the origin of the names or why biblical kings were chosen.

To toast someone using the larger bottles, you’d need a fork-lift truck! Perhaps not so strange that the terminology got a bit hazy if the choice of terminology took place while imbibing the contents….

Name of bottle

Magnum (1.5 L, 2 standard bottles)

Double magnum (3.0 L, 4 sb)

Jeroboam (sparkling wine) (3.0 L, 4 sb)

Jeroboam (still wine) (4.5 L,  6 sb)

Rehoboam (champagne) (4.5 L, 6 sb)

Imperial (6.0 L, 8 sb)

Methuselah  (sparkling wine) (6.0 L, 8 sb)

Salmanazar (9.0 L, 12 sb)

Balthazar (12.0 L, 16 sb)

Nebuchadnezzar (15.0 L, 20 sb)

———————————

Melchior   (24 sb)

Solomon  (28 sb)

Primat  (36 sb)

Melchizedeh  (40 sb)

Weird, merry and burra-bibiship

”weird” is a wonderful word. According to the Concise Oxford Dictionary, it’s derived from the Old English “wyrd”, meaning “destiny”, “fate” or in the plural “the fates”.

Wondering about the name of the storm “Urd” brought me to the Norns, Urd (according to Wikipedia) representing the past and controlling the destinies of people together with the other two norns, Skuld and Verdandi. “Urd” is glossed with “wyrd”.

“wyrd” had become obsolete in English but survived in Scotland. Shakespeare used it for the “weird sisters” (witches) in Macbeth and it later obtained the sense of very strange, supernatural, uncanny in English. My Scots-English dictionary still lists “weird” as also having the meaning of “destiny” or “fate”. The same word is relating to the verb “werden” in German.  I like the word a lot now that I know it better.

The whole area of obsolete words and, in particular, why words become obsolete interests me. I would like to find an academic study which attempts to categorise different ways to obsolescence. Sometimes, for instance, reality changes and a phenomenon no longer exists or exists only as a narrow use technical term (for instance, a lot of vocabulary relating to various kinds of horse-drawn vehicles). Or political and cultural changes occur, an example being the wealth of words from India, which made their way into (and in many cases out of) English, so that “thug” is well established (aided and abetted by sub-variants of our national character unfortunately) but “tiffin” and “memsahib” are becoming rather rare not to mention “burra-beebee” (an Anglo Indian lady claiming precedence at a party, which became sufficiently well established in English in days of yore for Viscountess Falkland to refer to “burra-bibiship”).

Another interesting topical word is “merry”. In my youth, it was widely used as a synonym for “tipsy” (perhaps slightly tipsy) but I can’t hear myself or younger generation(s) using it in this sense.

There’s “merry-go-round” but my feeling is that the US “carousel” is taking over in the UK too. And it survives too in “playing merry hell”. And Robin Hood’s merry men perhaps. But there’s something Dickensian, red faced whiskered and jolly about a social gathering being merry.

The word’s survival is powerfully aided, of course, by “Merry Christmas”, which we write as it seems a bit monotonous to say “Happy Christmas” and a “Happy New Year” so Merry survives in the combination but my impression is that “Happy Christmas” is increasingly the normal greeting when used by itself.

“Merry” is an old word also going back to Anglo-Saxon and older variants of German. It has also given us the related “mirth”. But somehow being merry is not very chic, neither in the form of ordinary nor alcohol-induced happiness. The word has rather gone out of fashion, which is another interesting category.

Words tell us a lot about a culture, what you can say, what people felt they needed to say. The Anglo-Saxons, for instance, had “leodbygen” (sale of one’s compatriots), which has rather dropped out of use (temporarily?). Words are weird and wonderful. I love them.

India beyond the red crayon

My earliest memories of India are being given a blank map of the world and instructed to colour the countries of the Commonwealth red. It was really Burma that was the problem, giving me the experience of knowing I was being dishonest but wielding my crayon anyway.

And then there was Kipling, stories of life in India and various words in the language of Indian origin.

The early 1950s saw bold talk of New Elizabethans. I remember patriotic Christmas presents relating to the coronation of Elizabeth II with pictures of various exotic types waving to the crowd and beaming with gratitude for the bounty of Britannia.

I wasn’t encouraged to think about why this small island off the coast of Europe should control such vast areas or what we had done or were doing and to whom or whether this was right.

I have a memory from the age of six of sitting on our living room floor in front of the gas fire trying to decide whether I was sad or not because of the death of George VI. I am rather proud of this but a few more years were to elapse before I started to think critically about our role in the world.

There was an ex-Army man in my Somerset village whose house was full of things Indian. And then University and the 1960s and stories of travels to India via Istanbul and Afghanistan for incredibly small amounts of money. I tried this in July 1972 with my then girlfriend from Ecuador – we got as far as Teheran before our even smaller amount of money made a return to Europe advisable. Knowing what I now know about the Indian climate, this was fortunate….

Over a quarter of a century was to pass before I actually got there for a month. It was like discovering a new room or rather floor of one’s house, a fascinating combination of the familiar and exotic. Unexpectedly accessible because of the widespread use of English. And so much of interest to learn about the languages (including Indian English), Hinduism (to understand quasi-polytheistic Christian culture better in the light of an avowedly polytheist religion), literature and history.  I read intensively but slowed down after a few months as other projects demanded attention but have now started again, stimulated by our coming visit to Kolkota.

I’ve just finished a very interesting work by Jon Wilson, a lecturer at King’s College, London, “Britain’s Raj and the Chaos of Empire. India Conquered”.  He is critical of those who try to present the Raj as smooth running and well ordered: “In practice the British imperial regime in India was ruled by doubt and anxiety from beginning to end…Most of the time, the actions of British imperial administrators were driven by irrational passions rather than by calculated plans. Force was rarely efficient. The assertion of violent power usually exceeded the demands of any particular commercial or political interest.”

It makes fascinating reading from the early days of small subsequently fortified trading posts on the coast, to the takeover of more and more areas, the rise of the East India Company, strange amalgam of economic group with semblance of state power, the effects of industrialisation in the UK and the barriers placed in the way of the growth of Indian industry, the breakdown of the old society and economy tending to lead to famine rather than the growth of industry. The inability of the English, few in number, to develop a stable basis of support among the Indian population as in Australia or Canada. Increasing panic leading to atrocities such as the massacre at Amritsar (Jallianwala Bagh) and machine gunning of crowds from the air at Gujranwala. And, as Wilson describes, the final scuttling away in the face of collapse after the second world war.

Jon Wilson provides an impressive range of material to support his thesis about the nature of the imperial regime. My knowledge of Indian history is not sufficient to see the weak spots or any stretched arguments in his fluent and well supported case. But the image in my mind is of a few British ants sitting on the back of the Indian elephant and wondering how to steer the beast. India was simply too huge and diverse and the English too few.

He provides a wealth of sources with a lot of interesting books that I would like to read and his book can be recommended to all those with an interest in that period of the UK and India’s history.